Can viscose become properly sustainable?

Viscose, a semi-synthetic fabric derived from wood pulp, appears at first glance to be an eco-friendly choice. It is renewable, biodegradable, and, as it originates from trees, it absorbs carbon during its lifecycle. Many brands have embraced viscose, acetate, and modal as seemingly sustainable alternatives to plastic-based fabrics. However, the environmental impact of viscose production raises significant concerns.

Nicole Rycroft, founder of the NGO Canopy, highlights the dark side of viscose production: deforestation. Approximately 300 million trees are felled annually to produce viscose, and this figure is expected to double in the next eight years as demand increases. This deforestation often occurs in ancient and endangered forests in Brazil, Canada, Indonesia, and Australia, threatening biodiversity and contributing to climate change.

Rycroft’s CanopyStyle initiative aims to mitigate these impacts by encouraging fashion brands to source viscose from sustainable and lower-carbon alternatives. Yet, even with resources like CanopyStyle’s Hot Button Report, which evaluates producers on deforestation risk and chemical management, many high-risk producers still supply major brands. The complexity of supply chains, often obscured by shell companies and undisclosed ownership, makes it challenging to trace viscose back to its origins and hold brands accountable.

Jocelyn Whipple of The Right Project underscores the difficulty of obtaining reliable information about viscose supply chains, even for industry insiders. Dr. Kate Hobson-Lloyd of Good on You criticizes brands for their lack of transparency, noting that only a small percentage of major fashion brands have committed to zero deforestation.

Shruti Singh of Fashion Revolution India argues that voluntary measures are insufficient and that mandatory regulations are necessary to enforce supply chain transparency. The upcoming EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) has been welcomed by campaigners, but only a small fraction of companies are expected to comply fully. Furthermore, textiles are not explicitly covered by the EUDR, raising questions about its effectiveness in curbing deforestation linked to viscose production. Despite these challenges, there are pathways to more sustainable viscose production. Consumers can look for products with the Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC) certification, which ensures that viscose production avoids deforestation and supports biodiversity and local communities. Over half of global viscose producers have shifted towards FSC-certified and low-carbon alternatives in recent years, inspired by similar transformations in the recycled paper industry.

So, viscose has several advantages over other synthetic fabrics - it is more sustainable than other plastics like polyester, it provides comfort, is breathable, and regulates moisture - but its production process is energy-intensive and relies on hazardous chemicals, posing significant environmental and health risks. Moreover, deforestation for viscose production undermines its eco-friendly reputation. To make viscose truly sustainable, the fashion industry must prioritise transparency, enforce stricter regulations, and adopt innovative, lower-impact materials. Consumers will play a role, too, by choosing certified and recycled viscose products and demanding greater accountability from brands. Ultimately, while conventional viscose is far from sustainable, there is potential for improvement through concerted efforts across the supply chain.